July 6
North Seymour Island
Another early morning pick up. So early that the restaurant wasn’t open yet. They prepared us cheese omelette sandwiches to take on the road with us. We climbed into the bus, buzzing with energy. Unlike the last boat tour, there were no kids, only quiet, sleepy adults.We had a few whispered words to the boys about behaviour and respecting everyone’s space on the boat. Their behaviour was actually very good, and we needn’t have worried.
It was a one hour and ten minute journey to the Island. During this time we got to know some of the other passengers. Everyone was lovely. There was a couple who has lived in Israel for 17 years, transplanted from New York City. They were staying at a “safari camp” that was accommodating the strict Kosher dietary laws. There were two friends from San Fransisco: one French Canadian woman originally from Montreal (although she spoke perfectly unaccented English), and the other grew up in India but had been living in the States for more than half her life. We also chatted with a pair of twenty-something brothers from the US who were in South America for a Jewish family wedding. Their mother was from Bolivia, so we got to learn a tiny bit about the Jewish community in this part of South America. There was also a South American couple who spoke no English.
North Seymour Island was the nesting ground for many different species of birds and it is mating season all year round. We were able to see male Frigate birds on display, trying their hardest to impress the females. This involves inflating a giant, red, balloon-liked pouch from their neck for 5 or 6 hours at a time. During this time they flap their wings, fluff out their neck feathers and make interesting noises, all to get the female’s attention. We thought it looked a bit uncomfortable with this giant balloon under his neck. They only lay one egg a year, and only breed every other year. The duration of time the parents look after the young is longer than any other bird. Scientists also believe the Frigate can actually sleep while flying!
We saw many Blue Footed Boobies at every stage of life: eggs, soft fuzzy chicks, taller fuzzy “kids”, and also the larger “adolescents” with half their body covered in feathers, and half still covered in soft, downy fluff.
We got back on the boat for a delicious fish lunch, and then were taken to a secluded beach called Bachas to see pink flamingos in a small lagoon on the island. We retraced our steps from the small hike and then spent time snorkelling with Sea Turtles. Erez managed to see a stingray as well.
When we returned, we took a walk around the town while the kids vegged out in the apartment. One highlight was our visit to a small art gallery run by a woman who has a life story that could be made into a romantic movie.
We checked out the supermarket to pick up lunch supplies, always an interesting experience when not on familiar turf. We had an eclectic dinner at a small restaurant, while watching strange reality Ecuadorian TV. We ended the day with a walk around the pier, seeing many white tipped sharks swimming though the harbour, and a sea wolf sleeping in a dingy tied up to the pier. As usual, Koren feel asleep ridiculously early in her clothes, before the kids, and Aubrey had to deal with bedtime.
Tomorrow we fly to Isabela Island.